Monday 18 June 2012

Introduction

This site is a brief review of the hotel, the restaurants and bars, and the sightseeing my wife and I experienced on a two week trip to the Sorrento area in Italy in early June 2012.
We stayed at the Majestic Palace Hotel in Sant Agnello which is situated about a mile away from the main square at the centre of Sorrento itself. We were on a half board basis, and had booked with Thompson Holidays.
At present this blog is just the text - hopefully I will add a little formatting and photos in the near future.

Hotel Majestic Palace

No, this hotel is not perfect by any means, and we found a few things wrong, but first and foremost, the staff is extremely friendly and helpful about trying their best to put things right for us, so I have nothing but praise for Giuseppe and the rest of them.
As you read through the issues we had, bear in mind that we had a wonderful holiday in Sorrento and the hotel was part and parcel of that, with lots of good stuff I am mentioning too that more than makes up for said issues. By the way, when I say friendly, I don’t mean they are going to be laughing and joking with you the whole way through your holiday, or be there to socialise with when you’ve run out of things to talk about with your partner. They smile, they are helpful (remember if you complain grumpily to anyone, you are hardly likely to see them at there best, but “ask” for help and people are normally happy to fix things for you), were completely approachable and were always professional and courteous.
So, we arrived late after delays to other flights which left us sitting on a coach for an hour and a half in the heat outside the airport. It might have been nice if the Thompson reps had at the very least got the driver to turn the aircon on in the coach while we waited, but I guess you could always wait outside the coach in the comfortably furnished (please note the sarcasm here) car park in the sunshine. When we finally set off there was no rep on board either which surprised me. For the start of the holiday, not many points on the plus side for Thompson. I know they cannot be blamed for flight delays, but as usual the feedback was always geared to make things sound better rather than tell you what is actually going on – i.e. “It’ll be about a half hour wait”, when in fact it was triple that.
Anyway, we were arriving at the hotel late, and perhaps a tad grumpy so when we got to our room (Room 22, ground floor at the back, which is down a level from reception) a few things were there to gripe about which sent us back up to talk with reception. Firstly the aircon was not operating and we were “mafting”, there was no light next to the mirror (for blokes that don’t understand this comment, it’s a lady thing to do with makeup application), and the extractor fan wasn’t doing anything in a bathroom that smelt a little funny. The main thing being the aircon, as being on the ground floor we didn’t really want to sleep with the doors open for obvious security reasons. Anyway, we asked if there was any chance of an upgrade to a higher up balcony room (we were happy to pay the extra involved) but sadly the hotel was full so no joy there. Reception did say it was a change over day the next day, so would try to sort out another room the next day.
To cut a long story short, we noticed later on that the doors had slatted shutters on the outside so we could sleep with those locked and still get ventilation, the next day we had a new table lamp, the aircon was fixed, together with a blown bulb we also commented on, an ashtray had been brought down for me (filthy pariah that I am) and they had even found a handheld hairdryer for my wife (as the built in one wasn’t powerful enough for her. And still they were trying to sort out another room. At which point we conceded that they had done enough to make the current room absolutely fine for us and asked if they would be glad to see the back of us. To which they replied happily that it was “no problem. It is your holiday and we want to make it right for you”.
So 10 out of 10 for service so far!
One other minor point about the room which would be cheap for the hotel to fix was the lack of anything to hang towels on in the bathroom. Just a hook on the back of the door would do.
Other than that our room was spacious with high ceilings, very nice furniture (including a bureau which I loved) and comfy enough beds. It would have been nice if there was a second “comfy” chair other than the dinning table style one at the dressing table, as I do spend a bit of time in the room while my wife is doing the war paint, but that’s a minor point. There are plenty of sockets about including a “thick” pin one in the bathroom to take a hairdryer or such. (Most of the sockets in the room are thin pin – which most euro adapter fit – but are designed for lower power consumption, but there are a couple of thick pin ones in the room too – just not by the dressing table).
The bathroom has both a shower cubicle and a bath (with Jacuzzi, but I never trust those so didn’t try it), and a bidet, which is a novelty to most Brits. Towels are provided: 2 bath, 2 hand and 2 bidet one.
On the terrace outside are two hammock style chairs which are nice if you want some peace and quite to sun yourself in the afternoon. Hedges to either side give the terrace a bit of privacy, but the view straight out is to a wall, albeit covered in greenery with the orange trees popping up above it. There’s also a small plastic table to put your drink on.
Other rooms further up in the hotel looked to be much smaller when we glanced through the open doors as they were being cleaned. How much you need lots of space is up to you versus the desire for a balcony room at the extra cost.
We were on a half board basis, and the evening meals have been fairly good with a three course meal that is waiter served from a choice on a menu of 4 starters, 4 mains and two desserts. This menu varies each night but if you are there for two weeks you will start to see repetition. It certainly is a change from the buffet style eating I’m used to in half board or all inclusive places I’ve been in before. There is also a good wine menu to go with the meal with house wine at 20 euros a bottle or 5 euros a glass. In general though, the starters seemed to be so much better than the main courses, which occasionally suffered from using poor cuts of meat and boiled to death broccoli. On a few I asked for two starters instead of having a main - a request that the hotel was happy to accommodate. I was happy with most of the things I ate but I am not a particularly fussy eater, whereas my wife very rarely managed to enjoy the main course at all. Any drinks you want with dinner are added to your bill. Desserts could do with a little cream to go with them for my taste, and we only found out on the last day that the staff were happy to add some ice cream to the side if you asked, although I have no idea if this would be an additional charge or not as I found out to late to try.
Breakfast isn’t quite so good, and although, again, it was fine for me, I can understand some of the previous reviews not rating it highly. It is a little limited compared to most hotels I’ve stayed in, but for me breakfast is just about stoking the boiler for the day, so it didn’t worry me too much. The buffet for breakfast never varies (then again, I have rarely stayed in a hotel where the breakfast menu did) and if you want any type of egg other than scrambled, then it’s an extra change. So cooked breakfast is scrambled eggs, very streaky bacon, bite sized hotdog style sausages, tomatoes and beans in sauce (do not expect Heinz here by the way). On the cold side there is one (occasionally two) type of cheese, ham, salami, breads, a small range of fruit, corn flakes, bran flakes, muesli, one pastry type, croissants, a few sponge cakes and fruit tarts, jam, honey, yogurts, and a few other bits I might have forgotten. There’s a coffee machine and tea or fresh fruit juice available too.
You have a table allocated to you but it’s not shared so there is no time restrictions to when you arrive to eat within the operating hours (7 to 10 am and pm for breakfast and dinner respectively) and the dinning area is nicely presented with white table clothes and fabric chair covers that help deaden the echoing that plagues many hotel dinning rooms. Be aware though that your allocated table is only really reserved for dinner. Although the little tag with your room number on it stays on the table the whole time, anyone can sit anywhere for breakfast. It does get a tad warm of an evening in the dinning room and it probably would be a lot more pleasant in there if the windows had been opened on those warm days. However we never asked for this to be done so I don’t know if the hotel would be just as obliging about this if we had as they were about everything else.
So in summary, as far as eating is concerned, if you are at all a fussy eater then I’d look elsewhere (and ask why are you going half board to start with?) but if not then hopefully you should be able to eat OK here.
The pool is nice as it has some shape to it rather than a boring rectangle, and the surrounding terraces have sun beds and some comfy wicker style sofas. The top terrace is outside the bar looking down onto the pool where there are shady dinning tables and some easy chairs and sofas if you are just having a drink or escaping the sun for a bit. The sun beds have an attached sunshade that can angle over your head but there are no parasols at all so if you want full shade you have to nab the few sun beds that at least are shaded by trees in the morning. By afternoon you are either a sun seeker, have slapped on factor 200 sun block, or retired to the bar. In general though, I liked the pool area because of the terracing, greenery and shape of the pool. The whole effect makes it a pleasant place to be, unlike a few hotels I’m been to where the pool area is a bare white rectangle of a courtyard round a rectangle of water. You get towel tokens to exchange at the bar for towels for the sun beds. Don’t think you haven’t been understood if you get given what look like tablecloths instead – these really are for the sun beds.
The bar itself is a pleasant, with an antique feel to the furnishings and has not got a pool table, but something very similar but without any pockets (not sure myself what that game is), and the room next to it seems to be a traditional games room with a green felt card table and a chess/draughts table. One end of the bar has a window opening out to the pool side terrace so you don’t have to go inside to order drinks.
We found that of an evening there were very few people about at the bar to the point that it felt quite dead in their, but that may be to your taste and may change with the people staying on a different week, but I think bar prices might have had something to do with it as although not particularly overpriced for Sorrento area, with places like Tony’s bar where a 250ml mini bottle of red wine is 3 euros of Donna Rosso where ½ litre is 4 euros, most people are not going to pay 5 euro per glass to sit in the Hotel bar all evening. We used it on most nights just for a single night cap before going back to the room. So I think my advice to the Hotel would be to try to get the drinks prices down a tad to encourage more use of the bar.
One other general thing that would be nice is a courtesy bus into Sorrento. It only a mile to walk but other Hotels in the area do offer this service and the Thomson brochure still stated there was one when we booked even though the staff said they hadn’t had one for several years, which disappointed us as it was one (albeit not major) point in our choosing the hotel in the first place.
All in all I was very happy with the Hotel and enjoyed my time there. It’s beautifully furnished in the public areas, the rooms are clean and spacious, and the staff are great. The meals are not quite as good as I might have hoped, but certainly I was completely happy doing a two meals in, one meal out approach, so the hotel as a whole is certainly one I could recommend

Restaurant - La Marinella

S. Agnello (081 8075674)
Straight down the road from the Majestic Palace towards the sea and you come to a terrace on the cliff edge with a bar/restaurant in the middle. The view from this terrace is a favourite spot to watch the spectacular sunsets, the view of Vesuvius and the rest of the bay of Naples. Through this terrace a ramp disappears downwards with a sign at the top advertising La Marinella, a seafood restaurant. As you walk down there is an opening on your left which looks like the entrance to some public toilets with the dated tiled walls, but don’t let that put you off, as if you go through here, down some steps, into the lift, down to floor minus 2, through the white tunnel, you emerge at the bottom of the cliff where there is a snack bar that serves the sun bed jetties and just above this is the restaurant itself, which offers balcony tables overlooking these jetties and a little cluster of boats. It’s a beautiful spot for a romantic evening meal, and the food served is as beautiful too. OK, if you don’t like seafood it’s a very limited menu for you, but if you do I think you will be in for a treat if you do visit. The spaghetti with clams had me using the bread to wipe every last drop of sauce off the plate, and the presentation of the main course was delightful. Surprisingly wine started at just 10 euros a bottle for the house wine, and the whole meal with wine, starters and main came to 71 euro, and that included a cover of a small prosecco upon arrival, a generous bread basket, and a pre-starter on the house.

Bar - The English Inn

Located along the main road through Sorrento, this pub style restaurant/bar with pleasant garden area out the back definitely caters for the tourists with the full English fry up and the pints of John Smiths. We just had a sandwich and a bruscetta here but both tasted very bland so although the guy serving us was friendly enough, and it’s nice enough looking given a main road location, it’s not one we returned too. Painted footprints on the floor lead you to the toilets which are “sans” seat, so it’s cold porcelain for the bum cheeks.

Restaurant/Bar - The Foreigner's Club

Via Luigi De Maio 35, Sorrento, 081 8773263, www.circolodeiforestieri.com
A little way down the road that leads to the marina and the Capri ferries on the right is The Foreigner’s Club. It occupies a shelf of rock that sits on the first bend of this road so the terrace behind the building looks out over the road down onto the Marina and straight across the bay of Naples to Vesuvius. It is one of the perfectly situated places for a drink or light lunch with a view, and there is lots of room on the many tables and cosier wicker bar style sofas. It seems to be a popular venue for weddings to and I can see why with the stunning backdrop of the volcano. It’s as reasonably priced as any of the bars in Sorrento, and if you bump in to any of the people wandering about the marina advertising it, you can get hold of a voucher for 10% off drinks which you can hang onto for every time you visit.
We mainly used it for drinks but I also had a delicious pasta lunch there so the food seems good too.
I didn’t go in the evening but apparently there is live music there each night.

Bar - Tont's Bar

A small bar on the corner of the crossroads of the main Sorrento road up from the Hotel Majestic is Tony’s place of which the bar itself is a small area in one opening in the building, but most of the seating sits on decking out between a little side road running in front of the bar, and the parallel main road itself.
Tony is a cheerful enough chap and a 250ml bottle of wine was around 3 euros so not an expensive place for the area. There are probably about 10 tables maximum packed onto the decking and it does get crowded but it seems to be the place if you want to chat to other holiday makers as everyone is close enough that it seems impossible not to at least acknowledge those on the next table.
It is noisy right next to the main road as the traffic rarely lets up, but has a nice atmosphere never the less.

Bar/Restaurant - Jolly Blu Pub

Up to the main road from the Hotel Majestic and 20 yards along it to the right is the Jolly Blu – The Pub, a spacious bar that seems popular for food and I think the prices as it seemed to be a tad cheaper than many. I think the subtitle of “The Pub” is certainly to attract the British clientele as is the full English breakfasts and fish & chips on the menu. Local wine is served at just 3.5 euros for ½ a litre but although it wasn’t the worst I taste, it might have come a close second. We think it was still fermenting in the jug. However they also have a range of bottles starting at a reasonable 10 euros and they do some interesting beers. Devil’s Kiss was an impressive red beer which was much like a Begium Trappist Ale at 5.5 euros per half litre and at 6.5% packed a punch. The Elephant was even stronger at 7.2% and tasted like a thick lager and a shade cheaper at 5 euros. Both of these were on draught together with another two offerings that I don’t recall, and there were also a lot of bottled beers on the menu including Chimay.
Just through the gates on entry are tables set in a garden area around a small water fountain, and further in is the bar itself to the right and a covered area that is more pub like to the left with wooden booth type table and the flat screen TV. Of  course when we were there on a “football” evening they had no ess than 9 TVs from little portables to flat screen plasmas and big screen projectors, so if you like to see the match while you are away it may well be a good choice.
Certainly worth going in for a few drinks (avoiding the local wine of course) and the meals looked OK from watching plates going to other tables, but bear in mind that tripadvisor reviews listed it as 18 out of 18 for restaurants in the area, so the general opinion isn’t particularly high

Restaurant - Grand Hotel La Favorita

Via Tasso 61, Sorrento, 081 8782031, www.hotellafavorita.com
After a good wander round the streets of Sorrento we eventually decided to try the restaurant for this Hotel that sits up on the roof which it shares with the swimming pool and sun beds. The bar and restaurant area is on one half of the roof so it does feel quite separate however. The impression we got walking into the street level bar area to take the lift up was that this was probably a Hotel out of our price range for holidaying with it’s very clean cut white décor, elegant white leather sofas and chandeliers. Once we were on the roof, it still looked quite chic, with impeccably dressed waiters and a diamond green and white tiled bar.
The first thing, however, that really makes this a great place to eat has to be the view of the sunset in the bay and over the roofs of Sorrento. The outlook is beautiful, and the food and service certainly matched.
A bottle of wine, 2 starters, 2 pasta courses and a cheese plate between us came to 81 euros (service included) and they certainly don’t believe in the usual “fine dining” style portions as I think there was about ½ a kilo of smoked salmon on my wife’s starter.
I don’t think they are used to people coming in off the street to eat as we were asked for our room number when we sat down, but I would definitely recommend you change that by visiting for an evening meal.

Restaurant - Cafe Latino

Corso Italia 24, Sorrento, 081 8773718, www.cafelatinosorrento.it
This was recommended by the Lonely Planet guide who have steered us well in the past and certainly didn’t let us down here. A beautiful Sorrentine garden is set in among the buildings of Sorrento town, and is sheltered from the bustle outside. A circular gazebo sits in the middle with about four tables, in it which look like they might be reserved for functions, and is surrounded by a flowerbed. Further low tables for people just stopping for a drink encircle this and then a path that runs around this separated tables on the outer edge of the square garden which are set in separate sections all surrounded by flowers, trees and shrubbery. The bar in one corner is painted in green to blend in well with the surroundings, and the whole effect is a very peaceful and romantic setting. Prices are fairly average for anywhere nice to est in Sorrento with a bottle of wine and a two course meal for us coming to just over 80 euros. We had a selection of local starters from the menu which included breaded risotto rice balls in cheese sauce, aubergines in tomato sauce, Parma ham and mozzarella, caprese salad, cheese and potato crockets, and two types of bruscetta. It was certainly plenty between the two of us that we had to ask for a little extra time before our main course.

Restaurant - Donna Rosso

Just a little way up the same road as the Majestic Palace, this little restaurant certainly doesn’t look much with a small inside counter and about ten small metal tables on the pavement outside surrounded by some wooden trellis. At night the fluorescent lighting also does it no justice, but food here is really nice and the house wine at 4 euro per ½ litre is perfectly drinkable, if not wonderful.
Had I not been on half board then I probably would have tried it in the evening and if you are on a tight budget it might be a good alternative to the hotel dinners, but for meals out I wanted somewhere a little more special in the evening so for me it served more as a nice place for lunch at great value.

Getting About

For buses from S. Angello into Sorrento there is a service that runs about every 20 minutes on a good day. It’s even timetabled, but the information on that timetable is worth about as much as a single old Italian Lira, so do not rely on the bus if you really must be anywhere at a certain time. We waited one night for an hour and a half before giving up and deciding we didn’t want to go into Sorrento that badly after all. However most times the bus did come within about 20 minutes of waiting and it takes about 15 minutes at most to journey in to the centre of Sorrento. To be honest, by the time you have walked from the
Majestic Place
up to the main road, waited for the bus, and then done the journey, you can generally always walk there in the same time if not quicker, but sometimes you just want to save your legs. So to get the bus you need first to purchase a ticket (1.20 euro at time of writing) from the shop next to the bus stop sign (opposite Tony’s bar) and when you get on the bus you need to insert the ticket into the machine near the driver to “stamp” it as used. This is the same for train tickets too – you can get them at the same shop and you need to stamp them in the machine before going on the platform to get on the train. Not sure how big the fine is if you forget to do this, but I wouldn’t suggest finding out.
Coming back from Sorrento there is a shop that sells tickets right next door to the info point on the corner of Via Correale and Corso Italia by Piazza Tasso and you can get on the bus at the stop on the opposite side of the road. The bus is the local Linea A in both directions, usually a small orange bus but occasionally a different colour. If in doubt just ask the driver of each bus that stops “Sant Agnello?” in a querying voice when the door opens. Keep an eye out for Tony’s bar again at the crossroads where it stops for getting back to the hotel.
Taxi’s we were told would cost about 15 euros each way. I can’t confirm this as we were too tight, so either walked or took the bus into Sorrento.
For trains turn left along the main road, dropping in at the shop again for the ticket, and keep going along the main road until it opens out on the left and you can see the Circumvesuviana station to the left set back from the main road. The Sant Agnello station of this line only has the one platform and trains go in both directions so if you are heading for Sorrento take a train going right to left as you stand on the platform, and if you are heading to Naples (e.g. for Pompeii or Herculaneum) wait for one that runs left to right.

Pompeii

Pompeii has to be done if you are staying in the area, and as with most trips you can do it yourself even with a guide for half the price of an organised tour.We took the train from Sant Agnello to Pompeii which is about 10 or 12 stops along the line but only about a 30 minute journey and trains run fairly frequently, about once every half hour. It the only train that runs through Sant Agnello on that line so as long as it’s going the right way as it comes into the platform, get on.
Getting off the train at the Pompeii station, you go under the tracks to com up in the station building and as you exit turn right and walk just a little way up the road past the cluster of tavernas where you can buy a bottle of water for a euro to take with you onto the site. Entry was 12 euros and we joined a 2 hour guided tour (run by Vincenzo Caporaso, +39.339.736.5063, www.yourguidetonaples.com) who charged 10 euros per person to show you round in a group of about 15 or so people. It also meant you managed a bit of queue jumping to get your entry tickets, and he was friendly, fairly funny and very informative. He stuck to the area around the Forum and skipped the odd thing that you might see on a regular tour, such as the main brothel with the sex position frescos, but when we went t see this for ourselves we were fairly glad he did as it was seething and would have wasted about 20 minutes of time just for that small building. He finished his tour back in the forum (you pay him at the end) and then you can go to explore the rest of the city, of which it was definitely worth walking right to the other end to see the Amphitheatre.
I’m not going to describe all the different things to see in Pompeii as there is plenty of information about on the ruins themselves and the details of the eruption of 79 AD, but what the guide books may not mention is that there is some where inside you can get lunch, albeit nothing grand. This café sits just outside the Forum area and serves pizza, burgers, chips etc. Very much like a very busy motorway service café, but unlike most such places in the UK you need to choose what you want first, then go to the till to pay, then take the receipt to the people actually serving the food. It was very busy when we were there so if there is more than one of you, then best to nab a couple of seats first and send one of you to get the food.
Leaving Pompeii, just make sure you come out of the same gate to get back to the train station although there is a one way system in place so you don’t pass under the long arched tunnel you would have come in through, but take a path around it.

Sorrento Sightseeing Bus

This is the standard open top bus that you get in most cities that provide a hop on hop off service and will cost 12 euros per person. There is only the one bus that runs four times a day every two hours starting at 9:30 and the last one at 15:30 from the Sorrento bus and train station. You can however board at any of the stops on route and buy a ticket on board. We bought ours in advance from the hotel reception, and walked down to the Sant Angello stop in front of the Hotel Mediterraneo by the lookout terrace at the bottom of the road the Majestic Palace is on. The bus at Massa Lubrense, Termini and Sant Agata on route so if you take the first bus of the morning you could spend two hours at each point and still get the last one back through Sant Agata to return you to Sorrento. We skipped Termini as firstly there didn’t seem to be much there (although Giuseppe on reception had told us there is a nice walk out to the point of the peninsula for great views) and the bus did give a five minute photo break anyway for every one to get off and take pictures of Capri island. Secondly, by only getting off properly at Massa Lubrense and Sant Agata, we could just stay on the bus upon the return to Sorrento station while it waited for about 20 minutes and then let the last run take us all the way back to where we started for a nice short walk back to the hotel.
At Massa Lubrense there is plenty of time in the two hours for a leisurely stroll down to the Marina for a nice quiet (you’ll appreciate the quiet after being in Sorrento for any length of time) coffee looking out over the boats and the bay, before a somewhat more strenuous walk back up to the town centre to have a little look round town and the a much needed couple of cold beers at the bar right next to where the bus stops.
At Sant Agata we just popped into the church for a look at the ornate altar, before carrying on past that for a light lunch at a pleasant outside snack bar. Ice cream on the stroll back and again there is a bar close enough to the bus stop for a drink while you wait.
All in all it made for a nice relaxing day and unlike the normal city bus tours of this type the drive out and about the peninsula goes through such a beautiful landscape it would be worth doing just for the drive itself even if you don’t get off at all.
You get a set of ear phones to plug in for a commentary of what you see along the way, but it’s a standard 3.5mm jack if you ant to use your own.

Herculaneum

My advise is to visit Pompeii first as although this is  smaller site and more residential so lacks the remains of the public buildings that Pompeii contains, the preservation of the houses and shops there is so much better so having seen the scale of Pompeii it then good to see a smaller site where the buildings reach to the upper storeys that are missing in Pompeii and you get a better feel of what it might have been like in its life. The approach to Herculaneum is also above the town so you get views over the whole of the excavation as you walk round the site to the entrance. Many of the wall paintings and frescos are in a much better state of preservation and there are even pieces of wooden furniture still there to see. So although Pompeii is a bigger site which many different sorts of buildings it may be a little disappointing in the detail if you see Herculaneum first. That’s purely a personal view of course, and I certainly wouldn’t recommend skipping Pompeii if you happen to do Herculaneum first.
It’s almost as easy to get to as Pompeii by taking the Circumvesuvianna  train from Sant Agnello to Erculano Scavi station (one stop on from the “other” Erculano station so don’t get off too early as I tried to) and the journey takes about 45 minutes. Coming back you just have to make sure you get on the right train as not all going through go back to Sorrento. The one we caught back was on time and did have Sorrento shown on the dot matrix sign in the front window of the train as it approached the platform.
When you arrive at Erculano Scavi go out of the station into the road in front and just look a little to the left and you will see the main road through modern Erculano leading down hill. Follow this all the way down in a straight line for about 500m and you will see a arch entrance to the site. Under this you walk down a further path with gardens to the left and the site is spread out below you to the right. At the bottom of this path is the ticket office where entrance cost us 11 euros and you can pick up a map.Out of the ticket office and the path turns right to give you views again over the site and at the end of this path is a little stall where you can hire an audio guide at 6.5 euros for one or 10 euros for a pair. Probably worth it but remember as with any working archaeological site, there will always be parts closed that the audio guide will describe so at times using this can be disappointing as the voice in your ear will tell you to enter a building that has a locked door or gate barring the way. It also at times uses some rather specialised language when talking about architectural features so is occasionally hard to follow what is being referred to.
There is a Café there but it was closed for the day we were there so I’m not sure if that’s a common thing or not, but there are a couple of vending machines to get small snacks and drinks, if you turn left when you get to the audio guide booth and walk past the toilet block keeping that to your right. Actually water was only 50c from this, so probably cheaper than buying from any of the people outside trying to sell it. Of course there are a fair few cafes to have lunch at on the main road that leads back up to the station once you have done the site.

Salerno & Paestum

Paestum is somewhere I’ve always wanted to see since I studied the temples as a kid at school for A level classics, but it seemed a faff to get there by ourselves so we decided to book onto the coach trip which is about 40 euro per person, and takes in a stop at Salerno on the way there and a quick stop to “try a little of the buffalo ice cream” at a farm on the way back (for this read the obligatory stop at somewhere to spend more money of wine, ice cream and other stuff). Quite why anyone would want to buy any thing to eat, let alone ice cream, when the chairs and tables are on a little patio outside the shop right next to the buffalo shed and the whole place had a definite “Farmyard Dung” aroma to it that certainly put us off.
Anyway the main part of the day starts with a stop at Salerno where the guide walks you through a tour of the cathedral which I must admit was quite impressive as I went in with a “Yawn, here we go, yet another church!” feeling, and then you get just ½ an hour free time before you need to meet back at the bus, which as the cathedral is already about a 10 minute walk away is about enough time for a quick look in a few shops on the walk back but not much else. It felt more like the free time here was just a bit of padding to put a tick in the box so they could say you get free time there in the brochure.
On to Paestum where you first look at the site with the guide giving you all the information as you go round and then you have time for lunch (about an hour) where you can either join the guide at a “recommended” restaurant in which you get a 13 euro per person deal on a two course lunch, or you can do what we did and wander off somewhere much quieter and have a big pizza and a beer for less.
After lunch there is about 30 to 45 minutes of a guided tour round the archaeological museum, before about 20 minutes to poke about the few souvenir shops and back to the bus to go home via the afore mentioned stop at the buffalo farm.
Now I’m glad I did this tour as previously mentioned I very much wanted to see Paestum, but unless you are in the same position I don’t think I can recommend the particular one we went on as the guide was firstly, very dull and secondly, difficult to understand. Obviously his English was infinitely better than my Italian, but he spoke to fast and with such an accent that I could just about follow the gist of his commentary if I concentrated really hard. Add the lack of any humour or enthusiasm, and I very quickly switched off and stopped listening to him. All the commentary is done via radios with an ear phone so you don’t have to be crushed up in a tight group to hear him. This is a good idea especially in the cathedral when quiet voices are needed, but it adds even more to an impersonal nature of the guide. By the time we got to filling out the questionnaire at the end to give feedback, I could not remember the guides name or even if he had introduced himself in the first place. So basically, for me (and a few others I spoke to on the coach) the guide was fairly worthless and effectively the trip was just an expensive bus that at least took you where you wanted to go.
The other painful part of the day was getting into the Paestum site itself, as although I understand they entrance fee is never included in the tour cost (as there are different entrance rates depending on things like age) they could at least have gathered the money on they coach along the way there and had the guide go and pay for entry for everyone in one go. Instead everyone queued up and bought their tickets individually, which took about 20 minutes or ½ an hour by the time some had dithered buying guide books at the same time.
Entry cost to Paestum and the museum (combined price) was 10 euro per person. The Salerno cathedral was free. Getting off the coach and away from the guides monotonous voice – priceless!  

Vesuvius 4x4 and Wine Tasting (Select)

There are so many options for visiting Vesuvius from getting the train and local buses, to half day coach tours or combination trips with Pompeii or Herculaneum. However we managed to find possibly the most expensive way to do it with the 4x4 trip. It cost 83 euro per person but actually I think it was worth doing if you can afford to push the boat out a little bit. The format is a mini bus pick up from your hotel (so you group size is about 15 or 16 if the bus is full) which takes you to the lower slopes of Vesuvius where you board the 4x4 which in turn takes you most of the way up the south side of the mountain. The last stretch you need to walk up before you get to the crater, but the guide stops a few times on the way to point things out and give everyone a breather, so you’d have to be very unfit to find the walk a problem.
After about an hour of so looking round the crater at the top, the things reverse with walking back down to the 4x4 and taking that back down to the Mini bus and travelling on that on to the Vineyard for a leisurely lunch and the wine tasting, after which you are taken home.
Having written it down, it doesn’t feel like it should take a full day, but things are all done at a leisurely pace and our guide, Desireé, helped make the day entertaining with her humorous and informed commentary. Her father, Alberio, also runs the tour with a different group (we had him as a guide on the Amafli Drive another day) and both groups met up for the lunch for which the Vineyard has a special terrace just for these tours, so if any big coaches arrive you are not mixed in with them.
The Crater is very impressive and with the 4x4 route you go in via a different gate that the one all the coaches use. The 4x4 vehicles themselves are big trucks with bus seats inside rather than land rovers or the like.
The wine tasting consists of officially the three standard wines form the vineyard; white, rosé and red, but I have a hunch the extra two we had (a sparkling rosé and another red) for various “tests” during the Vesuvius visit, are probably always supplied. You just get a taste of each but don’t be shy to ask for more of the ones you like. With the first white, Desireé takes you in among the vines to tell you about the wines they produce, and after lunch a quick look around the production area with a short talk about how the wine is made. Of course you have the opportunity to buy the wines if you want but there’s no pushing at all.
So I can’t tell you if any of the other tours would have been better value, but I can say that I wouldn’t begrudge the price for what was a really enjoyable day.

Capri

Easy to do on your own the ferries to Capri cost about 32 euro for a return and take about 30 to 40 minutes to do the crossing. I don’t know if it was just because there was a cruise liner in port but it was very busy with an enormous queue to get on the boat, but they are quite large ferries and there seemed to be enough space for everyone.
On the other side there are buses up to Anacapri (which we didn’t do as these buses looked small and they seemed to be trying to break the recond for how many they could fit in), or you can take the Funicular up to Capri town (which we did do mistakenly thinking that we were already in Capri town and that the top of the funiculare was Anacapri!). Be aware you have to go to the main ticket office for the tickets for buses or funicular, so don’t just stand in the queue at the entrance to the funicular itself if you haven’t got your ticket already.
Other than that I’ve not go much to say about Capri other than, been there, done that, but not bought the T-shirt as it was too feckin’ expensive. It’s a beautiful place and there are stunning views once at the top in Capri town itself, but it’s full of designer shops, expensive restaurants and hotels, so I guess it’s OK it you have come specifically to browse the Prada store, but for me the shopping experience is not one I crave. I found it particularly pathetic actually when passing by a shoe shop that had signs on the window forbidding you to take photographs of the 200 euro flip flops on display. That started to answer the question of just how far up one’s own arse one can get J
One of the cheaper restaurants cost us 27 euro for a small pizza to share and two small beers. Ouch.
The good thing about the trip was that your ferry tickets have a return time on them, but there is no problem about getting on an earlier one and returning to the now “not as expensive as you thought it was that morning” Sorrento.
As you might have gathered, Capri wasn’t my sort of place.

Amalfi Drive (Select)

Ok it’s an expensive way to do it at over 100 euros per person and that doesn’t included the other fees (3 for entry to Amalfi Cathedral, 10 for the boat trip at Amalfi, and 5 for Villa Rufolo at Ravello, which are all optional of course), but the local buses can get really crowded and I wouldn’t fancy standing all the way back from Positano. You can do it for half the price on a big coach but they are not allowed to drive into Positano which was one of the places we specifically wanted to visit and at least this trip did give you an hour there. It also only had 16 people in the bus which makes for a much more pleasant experience when you are with a guide.
At Positano (the first stop) the guide took us down from the parking point to the beach pointing out a bar where they had an arrangement to use toilets for free on the way and also a little information about the church too. Once at the beach they just orientated us for getting back to the mini bus and gave us time to ourselves, which with only an hour in total is either enough time for a look around the shops or stop for a drink and soak up the atmosphere a little but probably not both.
On to Amalfi after that and straight on to the boat for a 40 minute trip up and down the coast a bit for some spectacular views and the guide pointing out villas of the rich and famous and a few other bits and bobs of interest. Upon return he then took us up to the main square by the cathedral where you had about an hour left of free time. We choose to look round the cathedral and then a little amble down to the front for a quick glass of wine before getting back to the bus.
Next stop in lunch at a little village up in the mountains with a spectacular view down the valley to the sea. Lunch was a starter of a slice of pizza and a little tomato and mozzarella cheese followed by a pasta plate with two type of pasta and then a lemon profiterole together with a bottle of white wine per table of four. However we asked if they had any red and were given an extra jug of house red without any further charge.
After lunch we moved on to the last stop at Ravello where you have an hour to either just look about the town or the guide will give you a tour of the Villa Rufolo which I would definitely recommend doing as it’s a beautiful building.